Jewelry Dictionary: Dictionary of Terms used with Jewelry and Beading

Acrylic Resin Transparent man-made resins used in making molded plastics.
Aurora Borealis Named for the northern lights, aurora borealis is a term for crystal stones that have a highly iridescent surface. The effect is achieved by vapor blasting the facets of the lower part of the crystals with an invisible, micro thin metal sheet. This stone was created by Swarovski® in 1955 in collaboration with Christian Dior. Also known as AB, the term now refers to any highly iridescent surface. I love the look of these, and use the AB in some of my Swarovski® pieces.
Bail A metal loop that is used to attach a chain or cord to a pendant.
Ice Pick Bail This is similar to a prong bail. It creates a loop to attach a chain to when the prongs are closed into a cross-drilled pendant. I use ice pick bails with the Swarovski (TM) pendants on my sale page.
I used a sterling silver heart shaped bail in this design. The photo doesn't do this beautiful creation justice. i chose amethyst heart to honor my son who earned a purple heart in Iraq.
Bakelite The trademarked name for synthetic resins and plastics. You'll find jewelry pieces made of Bakelite with animal and fruit motifs. These were very popular in the 1930s and are now considered collectors items. They're really quite interesting synthetic beads.
Briolette A briolette is an elongated, pear-shaped stone covered with bands of triangular or rectangular facets, usually with a pointed end and without a girdle.
Carat This is the unit of weight used for precious stones. One carat equals one-fifth of a gram. Also a measurement of fitness in gold with pure gold being expressed as 24Kt.
This is an interesting bit of information:
The term ''carat'' dates back to the traders of the ancient world. A standard weight was required for precious gems as merchants of the ancient Mediterranean and Middle East were dependent on the ability to trade with a reasonably consistent unit of measurement. Because of this need, seeds and grains were used as widespread units of measurement.
I purchase many of my supplies and beads from Fire Mountain Gems, and in fact they have a wonderful dictionary of terms and lots of information about making jewelry. Please pay them a visit!
Cat's Eye Glass that reflects light in a way reminiscent of a cats eye. These can be found in many colors. I love the look of the cat's eye and use them in a few pieces-hopefully more to come!
Chalcedony Various types of colored quartz, usually with a milky appearance, including carnelian, agate, cat's eye and jasper.
Choker Necklace A tight-fitting necklace that is worn close to the base of the neck. May be plain or with pendants or ornamentation. Measures 16 to 18 inches.
Cloisonné Enamel with surface decorations set in hollows formed by strips of wire welded to a metal plate. I love these green and orange cloisonne' beads and teamed them with some orange chalk turquoise. I use some cloisonne' beads in some of my wedding rosaries, also.
Cubic Zirconia Synthetic gemstone developed in 1977 to simulate a diamond. Don't we love these? Especially in a time when money is tight, we still want pretty things. CZs give us some bling without the zing!
Dulling (or Satinizing) Brushing a metal surface, sometimes with a matting punch or powder, to give it a duller (matte) finish.
Electroplating Coating a metal surface (in fashion or bridge jewelry, usually with copper, nickel, chromium, gold, silver or rhodium) by means of electrolysis. The amount of electroplate on an object is measured in microns (one micron = .001 mm). See also Gold Electroplating and Silver Plate.
Embossing The process of raising a domed design on the front of a piece of metal by beating it from behind with punches and a hammer. An embossed piece can make such a statement!
Hammering Giving metal surface marks and textures by hammering. This creates very unique pieces.
Heishi (pronounced Hee-Shee) is a term that was originally used by Pueblo Indians to describe shell disks of a consistent size that had been drilled and strung as a necklace, creating a rope-like tube that was as fluid as a serpent when it moved. Today, this term describes thin, uniform disk-shaped shell, gemstone and metal beads that are center drilled and strung in a row. They are used in a variety of designs. I use them in many of the necklaces I designed and especially in the wire rosaries. These beads come in a variety of colors, and are so much fun to work with.
Inlays To set pieces of wood or ivory, for example, into a surface, usually at the same level, to form a design.
Enamel Colored, opaque glassy material fused onto metal, pottery or glass. I have created many beautiful pieces with enamel. Be sure and visit the Carmen's Treasures Store to see.
Filigree Lace-like ornamental work of fine gold or silver wire. I love the romantic look of filigree, and I use filigree bead caps in some of my rosaries and necklaces and even earrings.
Foil A thin leaf of metal placed behind a gem or paste stone to heighten its color or brilliance. I thought you might want to see what this looks like.
Gold Electroplate An electrolytic coating with gold, or with an alloy of not less than 10% fineness to a minimum thickness throughout that is equivalent to seven millionths of an inch. This means that where the fineness is less than 24Kt, the thickness must be proportionately greater, so that the same amount of fine gold is seven millionths of an inch, it may be marked - heavy gold electroplate.
Gold-filled A gold alloy plate made by soldering, brazing, welding or other means that is not less than 10Kt fineness, where the plating constitutes at lest 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article. The term must be preceded by the karat fineness of the plating, such as 14Kt Gold-Filled. When using the term gold overlay, manufacturers are permitted to use a layer of gold that is less than 1/20th the weight of the entire piece, but they must stamp the proportion of the gold layer on the jewelry.
Gold Imitation An alloy of zinc, tin and copper that results in a yellow the color of gold.
Granulation One of the oldest jewelry design techniques, dating to 2500 BC. Tiny grains of gold or other metal are stuck to a surface as ornaments.
Lariat Necklace An open ended necklace that is held together by a flexible element such as a drop or ring. Length is 48" or longer.
Matinee-length Necklace A single row necklace ranging form 20 to 25 inches length
Matte A dull finish, particularly on metals.
Millefiori Created by fusion of several glass rods arranged so that the cross-section creates a flower or pattern with a mosaic-like appearance. There are so many beads I am 'weak' for, but this is one kind that is so unique and playful. I love them! I look forward to designing some jewelry with Millefiori beads next season!
Nickel A silver-white metal popular for plating because it is malleable and resists oxidation. The most common of metal allergies.
Opera-length An especially long strand necklace. Length is 26 to 36 inches. These are really starting to be the hit of fashion right now.

Pave Setting The method of setting stones very close together so that very little metal shows between them. My wedding set is a pave style. In the right light, it has quite the bling!
Precious Stones Rare and costly gems: diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
Princess Length Necklace A 17 to 19-inch length necklace.

Repousse Patterns or decorations achieved with punches or chasing hammers.
Resin A solid or semi-solid organic (carbon based) material, either natural or synthetic. In general, non-soluble in water.
Rhinestone Originally quartz from the gold washings along the Rhine river. Today, generally means colorless potash-and-lead glass that contains quartz in the form of melted lead crystal and is cut like a diamond. Also called strass, diamante.
Rhodium An expensive whitish-gray metallic element from the platinum family.

Riviere Necklace of stones, either all the same size or graded from a large central stone.
Rope Necklace Length 37 inches or longer
Sautoir A long necklace, usually made of pearls or beads and often ending in a tassel. Popularized in the 1920’s
Seed Beads Seed beads are small, uniform beads ranging in size, but all are relatively small. "Seed Bead" is a generic term for any small bead. They can be sued for loom or off loom weaving, and also in wire jewelry between larger beads. Some contrast, some match and others blend in. Seed beads can really create a unique and special look to any design. I like to play around with the looks they create.
Silver Filled A mechanical bonding with a silver alloy of at least 92.5 percent fineness. The bonding must be equal to at least one-twentieth of the metal in the article. This can also be called silver overlay, but never silver plate.
Silver Plate A fine silver film deposited on a base metal by electrolysis, in the same kind of electrically-charged bath used to make gold electroplate. The film can be as thin as seven millionths of an inch. A silver plate item cannot be called sterling or bear a marking of ’silver’.
White Metal Alloys with heavy tin or lead content, such as pewter. Also called Britannia metal or tin plate. One of the most commonly used metals in costume jewelry.
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